1 The CSFAQ
1.1 What is in this FAQ?
1.2 What are the commonly used abbreviations in this FAQ?
1.3 What are the commonly used terms in this FAQ?
1.4 Who is Dave?

2 Choosing your Model
2.1 What is EPP?
2.2 Why should I get an EPP plane?
2.3 Should I get an Eraser or a Jazz for my first plane?
2.4 What type of plane would it be best to get for slope combat?
2.5 Why aren't there any German planes?
2.6 I don't live near a slope - can I still fly an Eraser or a Jazz?
2.7 What is the usual weight of a finished CS plane?
2.8 Are the Eraser and Mustang / Spitfire much different in flight?
2.9 Which plane can fly in greatest range of wind speeds?
2.10 Which plane penetrates best in high winds?
2.11 Why are the new spitfire wings clipped?

3 Building your Eraser / Warbird
3.1 Are there any building tips I should know about?
3.2 What is a dihedral / anhedral / polyhedral and should I have any in my
wing?
3.3 How do I build my Eraser wing flat?
3.4 How do I build my Warbird wing with some dihedral?
3.5 How do I make sure my Eraser / Warbird wing won't come off?
3.6 Why do I have to fibre-tape the wing saddle?
3.7 Are there any alternatives to sanding the strapping tape in the wing
saddle?
3.8 How should I tape my warbird?
3.9 Do I have to put the corflute wing strap on my warbird?
3.10 My glue isn't drying - what is wrong?
3.11 Is there any difference between uni- and cross- directional fibre tape?
3.12 Can I fasten my wings to the Eraser with dowel and rubber bands?
3.13 Will my warbird need nose weight?
3.14 Do the warbirds need / have wheels?
3.15 What about balsa ailerons?
3.16 I'm stumped by the instruction "cut 27mm off the narrow end of
the aileron" - as far as I can see my balsa ailerons are the
correct length, so what do I cut exactly?
3.17 What size servos give the best performance in my Eraser / Warbird ?
3.18 On the Eraser / Warbird, is it better to use two servos for the
ailerons so as to have more power or is this overkill?
3.19 Do I have to cut off the servo mounting lugs ?
3.20 How do setup my Eraser / Warbird for axial rolls?
3.21 Do the Mustang and Spitfire have exactly the same wing as the eraser?
3.22 Can you make the Eraser fuselage more pointy or thinner for less drag?
3.23 Should I replace the double spars with one extra thick spar for more
strength?
3.24 How do I balance my Eraser / Warbird?

4 Building your Jazz
4.1 Does my Jazz Extreme need a nose cone?
4.2.Is it worth putting mini/micro servos in a Jazz?
4.3 Should I put carbon spars in my Jazz?
4.4 Is there any way I can balance my Jazz without extra weight?
4.5 When covering the Jazz with coloured tape, should you overlap the
tape at the centre of the wing or cut it?
4.6 I have a variable rate mixer, what settings are best for the Jazz?
4.7 Can you pod-mount an IC engine on a Jazz?

5 Finishing your Model
5.1 Arggh...I've made a mistake in the shaping...what do I do?
5.2 How should I decorate my model?
5.3 How do get a camouflage effect?
5.4 Can you paint over the PP tape supplied with the kit and if so what
paint do you use?
5.5 How should I finish my balsa ailerons?
5.6 What is a good colour scheme for a beginner?
5.7 How do I avoid wrinkles in my PP tape covering?
5.8 Can I use a heat gun or paint stripping gun to shrink the covering?
5.9 Does it matter what order I tape in?
5.10 Can I use tinfoil for a metallic look?
5.11 How do I make exhaust ports on my Warbird?
5.12 What size plastic spinner is scale for the Spitfire?
5.13 How can I hide my pushrods and control horns on my
Eraser / Warbird / Jazz?
5.14 How do I shape the new spitfire Mk14 bubble canopy?
5.15 My tail feathers are droopy - what can I do?
5.16 How can I make wing fairings for my Spitfire?

6 Flying
6.1 How do I choose a slope?
6.2 What is a spiral dive, what is a spin?.
6.3 What is the best way to launch the Jazz?
6.4 How can I get a better grip on my model for launching?
6.5 My Jazz flies unstable...what is wrong?
6.6 What is reflex, and how much do I need?
6.7 Can I fly at night?
6.8 Can I land in water?
6.9 I fly near water...what precautions I should take?
6.10 Can you bungee launch a CS plane?
6.11 What is Dynamic Soaring (DS) ?

7 Repairs
7.1 My Eraser / Warbird fuselage has cracks in it - what do I do?
7.2 My Eraser / Warbird wing came off even though I did a really good
job of gluing it on - what do I do?
7.3 My Eraser / Warbird / Jazz has a chunk missing / a slice cut into
the wing's leading edge - what do I do?
7.4 My fuselage looks pretty beaten up - is it worth fixing?
7.5 I can't get 3M Super Spray77, but can get 90 and 75 - are they ok?
7.6 What are the different sorts of tapes and what should I replace them
with if I run out?
7.7 Can my Eraser / Warbird fly with only one aileron?
7.8 My plane crashed and now it won't turn very well and it only rolls
slowly - what is wrong?
7.9 A clevis broke - should I upgrade to metal?

8 Miscellaneous
8.1 What is a servo saver?
8.2 Does my Eraser / Warbird / Jazz need servo savers?
8.3 Do I need a lost model alarm?
8.4 How do I convert my Hitec receiver switch for use with a charging
plug in my plane?
8.5 Where can I get some free simulator software?
8.6 What are transmitter modes?
8.7 Is it safe to use a smoke system on my CS plane?
8.8 What is an elevon mixer?
8.9 Can I leave my plane in a car on a hot day?
8.10 What are GIMPS?

9 Acknowledgements
10 Disclaimer

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 The CSFAQ

1.1 What is in this FAQ?

Info on selecting, building, flying and repairing Canterbury Sailplane's range of EPP slope soarers.

1.2 What are the commonly used abbreviations in this FAQ?

CA - Cyano Acrylate (superglue)
CG - Centre of Gravity
CS - Canterbury Sailplanes
DF - Ducted Fan
DS - Dynamic Soaring
EPP - Expanded Polypropylene
EPS - Expanded Polystyrene
PP - Polypropylene
PSS - Powered Scale Soarer (scale model of powered plane without motor)

1.3 What are the commonly used terms in this FAQ?

elevon - control surface on the Jazz
foamie - EPP slope soarer.
fuse - fuselage
lift - rising air
rotor - turbulent air behind slope
sink - falling air
tail feathers - vertical & horizontal stabilisers / tailplane
turbulence - bumpy air

1.4 Who is Dave?

The Dave in question is Dave Griffin, of CS. See website for contact
details.

2. Choosing your model

2.1 What is EPP?

This a revolutionary new material for Foam Model Aircraft, Originally
designed for computer packaging - it is now also used inside car dashboards
and the like. EPP looks like shiny polystyrene foam, but is the incredibly
tough and resilient polypropylene foam. We have driven my car over a
sample, it deformed a little when the car went over it, but after there was
absolutely no distortion or marks on the foam after. Some people even claim
you can chew it like gum without harming it, although we don't recommend
trying this yourself. It is widely used in the USA for Foamy production. As
there is no computer or car manufacturing industry in New Zealand, EPP is
not available locally, we have searched the Globe to find a reliable and
cost effective source and are now importing EPP to NZ just for our model
aircraft. EPP models will last a lot longer than Polystyrene. When your
model looks tired and creased simply remove the tape and recover for a fresh
new looking model.

2.2 Why should I get an EPP plane?

1) EPP is virtually indestructible, so someone who crashes planes a lot can
still fly next week.

2) Any unexpected difficulties don't mean the end of your plane either -
if the wind dies on you and you can't get back to the landing area, you can
safely dump the plane in a convenient bush. Sure beats hours of repair work
before you can go flying again!

3) EPP being stronger allows for a thinner fuse and wing sections,
increasing performance over polystyrene planes.

4) EPP provides for an incredibly fast method of construction - 3
evenings are enough for even a complete beginner.

5) It's easy to shape with wallboard sanding mesh, on the matching handle.
Very inexpensive from any decent hardware store. Rips away at the EPP
without "chunking" it. Sharp No. 11 blades also make short work of shaping.
A combination of these blades and the snap-blade Olfa knife enable holes for
radio gear to be accurately cut very quickly.

6) EPP is more forgiving if you make a mistake or take a chunk out - just
glue in some new foam where needed with contact cement or Spray 77, once
the glue dries it is as good as new and you can continue shaping. Don't use
goop because it dries too hard to sand and you get a ridge around the
repair. Alternatively, fill small holes with Sellys "No More Gaps". This
product stays flexible, and if applied smoothly doesn't need sanding. It
sets up quickly and takes the 3M77 well for covering.

7) Coloured tape is a breeze to put on EPP using a hot iron around the
curves (whereas polystyrene tends to melt ). For a fine PSS finish,
Ultracote is best if you can get it, or otherwise Profilm or Oracover.

8) EPP can be recovered after a heavy combat season. Plane looking
wrinkled? - rip the covering off, fix bad patches of foam using 6 above
and then recover. Good as new!

2.3 Should I get an Eraser or a Jazz for my first plane?

The Eraser is better to learn with as it is more docile than the Jazz.
Anyone who has flown one will tell you it is a great model. It flies well in
light winds, flies even better in high winds. As you progress, you can
increase the control throws to turn it into a hot combat machine that will
satisfy any expert. The Eraser is also a little cheaper if you are starting
from scratch because it doesn't require an elevon mixer. Having said all
that, lots of people have ignored our advice and learned to fly with a Jazz,
although if you do this it helps to get some (informal) instruction from
another flier. Both are EPP, as are all our foamies, so they are as good as
indestructible.

2.4 What type of plane would it be best to get for slope combat?

If you have some flying experience, you can't go past the Jazz Extreme for
sheer combat performance, and its wide wind range (easily handles both
extremes of light and heavy). If you haven't much experience, the Eraser
will grow with you from slope trainer to hot combat machine. For those with
a hankering for a scale ship, the war birds look absolutely awesome when
they are dog fighting, and track across the slope like homing angels without
needing a gale of wind to fly. They are hard to knock down and dish out the
punishment to lighter planes.

2.5 Why aren't there any German planes?

The German planes were not that popular, so we discontinued them. We still
have the templates if you want one made up specially, or you can get one of
our EPP developer's kits and shape it yourself. Just get hold of a 3-view
(plan, front and side elevation views) off the net, blow it up to scale size
on a photocopier or in your pc, and hey presto, there is your template.
Our customers tend to prefer the lighter weight and thinner wing section of
our war birds.

2.6 I don't live near a slope - can I still fly an Eraser or a Jazz?

Yes - with a little ingenuity you can add motors to any CS model. Already we
have seen a war bird with an IC engine in the nose, Erasers with 2 x 383
(speed 400) electric motors mounted in the wings, and a Jazz with a pusher prop.
Keep an eye out for the new Tucano electric park flyer and the Jazz
electric power pod.

2.7 What is the usual weight of a finished CS plane?

In round figures, the weights are:
Eraser 650g
War bird 800g
Jazz 500g

2.8 Are the Eraser and Mustang / Spitfire much different in flight?

All three share the same wing, except the tips are shaped differently for
looks (doesn't affect performance). The war birds are a little faster and
roll a little quicker. All three planes are a delight to fly.

2.9 Which plane can fly in greatest range of wind speeds?

The Jazz covers widest range of wind conditions. It is hot and very stable
in high winds, and excellent in light air too. This comment sums up light
air performance nicely: " Last Saturday I flew it in only a few knots of
wind, only 2 Jazz and a thermal soarer could stay aloft! " . It is
especially designed for dynamic soaring where speeds can easily reach 100mph
on the right day, so it has no trouble penetrating on a heavy day during
normal slope flight.

2.10 Which plane penetrates best in high winds?

All the planes will penetrate in high winds, but you need to fly them fast,
especially the Jazz because it is lightweight. The Jazz is especially
designed for dynamic soaring, where speeds can easily reach 100mph, so don't
think it won't penetrate into heavy winds. The war birds penetrate slightly
better than the eraser, because their shape is more slippery and they are a
little heavier. In extreme winds you can add lead ballast to the Eraser on
top of the main spar to help if you wish. If adding ballast to a war bird
(not needed normally), tape lead under the main spar. If you tape the lead
to the top of the fuse on a low wing plane such as a war bird, you will get
a pendulum effect that makes it quite crabby and even harder to fly.

2.11 Why are the new spitfire wings clipped?

It makes better use of the wing (more area = more lift) also the clipped
wing tip creates less turbulence than the elliptical tip. For those reasons
we changed the Spitfire to the Mk14, which has nearly square wing tips -
like the Eraser. They fly REALLY well.

3. Building your Eraser / Warbird

3.1 Are there any building tips I should know about?

Just read the instructions, and this section and you will be well armed with
knowledge.

3.2 What is a dihedral / anhedral / polyhedral and should I have any in my wing?

Dihedral when the tips are higher than the centre of the wing, anhedral when
the tips are lower, and polyhedral is when the wings are curved up. Dihedral
makes the plane roll upright if it is upset, and too much dihedral makes it
hard to do aerobatics and fly inverted. Anhedral also affects aerobatics and
should be avoided at all costs. Polyhedral is common in thermal soarers that
don't have ailerons. CS models have ailerons so don't need self righting
wings.

The Eraser wing should be built flat - tips at same height as
centre. The Warbirds can do with a little dihedral for looks - having the
tips about 25mm higher than the centre of the wing looks great and doesn't
adversely affect the aerodynamics.

3.3 How do I build my Eraser wing flat?

Follow the instructions exactly. Build it on a flat surface - you can check
it first with a long ruler (1m is good) held on its side - any gaps under
the ruler shows hollows in the table. Make sure you sit the wing in the
matching wing beds and weight it when the glue is drying.

3.4 How do I build my Warbird wing with some dihedral?

For a small amount of dihedral, lay the wing halves upside down when
installing the wing spars. Weight the wing in the centre, fore & aft of the
spar line, and prop up the wing tips by 5/16", prior to installing the fibre
tape strip on the top of the wing. Then continue to tape up the wing as
usual. This is not enough dihedral to affect the aerobatic abilities of the
War birds, but it just looks better to the eye.

For more dihedral, take the aluminium tubes, put the f/glass rods in
after marking the centres, then put them in a vice and give the tubes (not
the rods) two belts with a two pound hammer. This ought to bend them just
enough to give 25mm dihedral at the tips without distorting the tubes.
Reverse the f/glass rods (in case there were any shock fractures at the
ends) and glue them in place. Then set the spars in place in the wing, one
half at a time, on a dead flat surface. Glue the wing halves together with
supplied clear bond glue or Goop. Make sure the wing spars are not showing
above the surface, then dribble thin CA along the spar rods and kick it off
with Zip Kicker. Do this top and bottom to both wing halves, and you
should have a nice rigid wing with 25mm of dihedral at each wing tip in
about five minutes.

3.5 How do I make sure my Eraser / Warbird wing won't come off?

Follow this great advice from Patrick McGrath...

If you don't want your wing to come off in a cartwheel crash, it must be
installed properly. Do not cover the wing seat, or the wing in that area,
with heat shrink film or coloured tape. Do cover the wing seat with the
fibre re- enforced packing tape, stuck sideways & down the side of the
fuselage on each side for about 40mm. Smooth down with a hot iron (150deg
C). Wipe opposing faces of wing and seat with acetone, (don't slop it on),
then sand lightly to get a roughened surface, wipe again with acetone and
let dry. Goop the surface of the wing seat well and press the wing in place.
Smooth any Goop which oozes out of the sides into a nice fillet with your
moistened finger.(don't lick it afterwards!!!) Check the wing is positioned
properly, then put a weight on it and leave it to cure for at least 4 hrs.
DO NOT put the corflute strap on at this stage. When wing is cured in
position, goop the strap in place and hold it down with a couple of pieces
of strapping tape laid crossways , fore and aft of the wing. Weight the
strap down and allow to cure. When cured, wrap your coloured covering tape
over the strap to make it look nice. Important: Do Not cover the corflute
strap before the strap is cured in place. This is because the Goop needs air
to cure it( in the case of the Selleys Urethane, moist air) If you cover it
up so the goop is cut off from contact with the air, it may take several
days to set and if you fly the plane in the meantime, you risk the wing
parting company from the fuse, (which is painful for the aileron linkages).
This routine is easier than it sounds.

Others have had success with liquid nails instead of goop, but it takes
about a week to cure. You can help prevent the wing strap tearing after
repeated cartwheel crashes by covering it with strapping tape. Wrap one full
length piece around each edge and then a further full length piece on the
top and bottom surfaces. Then roughen the bottom side (the wing side) with
some sandpaper before gluing into place. Tape it well, fore and aft of the
wing and weight it down too, letting it cure before adding the cosmetic tape
or covering.

3.6 Why do I have to fibre-tape the wing saddle?

Gluing EPP foam to it's self is NOT a good idea in small contact area/high
stress areas. This is because EPP foam will tear in shear alongside of the
glue line. Gluing taped surfaces together distributes the localised stress
over a greater area, i.e. up the sides of the fuse and out over the surface of
the wing root area. Same goes for the tailplane saddle. If you cover the
wing (and/or tail) in a heat shrink film (such as Profilm} or coloured PP
tape, it should be cut away in the saddle area.

3.7 Are there any alternatives to sanding the strapping tape in the wing saddle?

Etching with Prymol does the same thing, chemically, as sanding. It
provides a "Keyed" surface for the adhesive to cling to better. If you sand
the tape surfaces to be joined with 400 grit wet & dry paper, then de-grease
with a couple of drops of DAWN dishwashing detergent in a saucer of warm
water, rinse and let dry, then glue up with any of the available "Goops",
it should work well.

3.8 How should I tape my warbird?

Use the barrel taping procedure outlined in the diagram below by Patrick
McGrath. Note that you should use fibre tape, and fully cover the wing
saddle.

*** See barrel_taping.jpg ***

3.9 Do I have to put the corflute wing strap on my warbird?

You can get away without the wing strap on the warbirds (but you definitely
need it on the Eraser) so long as you use plenty of fibre tape to secure the
wing in position. Definitely opt for the X-taping pattern at the front and
back of the wing, as described in the instructions.

3.10 My glue isn't drying - what is wrong?

Urethane type goops, such as Sellys Urethane "goop", must be treated
differently to Shoo Goo 2, Household Goop, Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo, etc. If you fill
the wing saddle with Sellys Urethane "goop" and then strap it up with tape
and leave it in your nice warm, dry room to set, IT WON'T. Not for a long
while, maybe several days. This glue sets by contact with the moisture in
the air (see the instructions). If you apply the glue, then set it aside
with no tape on at this stage, then put it in your bathroom after you have
had a shower, It will cure overnight. Then strap it up and leave it for a
day or two to cure really well. Note that this tip doesn't apply to Liquid
Nails, this glue cures slowly when sandwiched between non-porous surfaces
such as fibre tape, and cures even slower when cold and wet.

3.11 Is there any difference between uni- and cross- directional fibre tape?

You can use them interchangeably, but you can't use coloured PP tape in
place of the fibre tape. Some use 1 inch wide unidirectional tape for
barrel wrapping the warbird and cross directional for everything else.

3.12 Can I fasten my wings to the Eraser with dowel and rubber bands?

The 1200mm wing span is small enough to fit any car, so you don't need
removable wings. You could probably do it if you added ply doublers to the
side of the fuse to stop the dowels ripping out, but it is a whole lot of
extra work that isn't really necessary and detracts from the simplicity of
the foamie concept.

3.13 Will my warbird need nose weight?

Yes, they tend to take between 2 and 5 oz to balance. The best way to
install the weight is to cut off the spinner, and cut slits or holes in which
to bury fishing sinkers in the nose. Then stick the spinner back on.

3.14 Do the warbirds need / have wheels?

Nope, and nope. They would be draggy, easy to break off, and you hardly ever
have a mown landing strip to touch down on at the slope.

3.15 What about balsa ailerons?

All kits are now supplied with balsa ailerons. Note that foam ailerons are
fine, probably 75% of the guys still have them fitted, it is often more the
thought of the foam ailerons that puts guys off, rather than the reality of
them being inferior. But if you do what to retrofit balsa ailerons to your
plane, we can supply them for a small cost, or you can get trailing edge
stock from your local model store (9mm thick, 44mm width is good). For best
results, cut the ailerons to the same plan form, and razor plane / sand them
to follow the taper of the wing.

3.16 I'm stumped by the instruction "cut 27mm off the narrow end of the
aileron" - as far as I can see my balsa ailerons are the correct length, so what
do I cut exactly?

Don't panic - these instructions refer to the polystyrene ailerons and will
be updated now that balsa ailerons are supplied in the kits. For the balsa
ailerons, all you need to so is trim the trailing edge of the ailerons
according to your wingtip template.


3.17 What size servos give the best performance in my Eraser / Warbird ?

In all cases the standard servos are just fine, and will give you the
correct weight. Just cut off the mounting lugs and fix them in position with
a dab of Goop.


3.18 On the Eraser / Warbird, is it better to use two servos for the ailerons so
as to have more power or is this overkill?

Overkill, plus mounting the extra servo would be a hassle.


3.19 Do I have to cut off the servo mounting lugs ?

If you want to use the servos in something else later, then you can leave
them on. Replacement cases are cheap. You'll probably find installation of
the aileron servo in the Eraser / Warbird is difficult with the lugs on.

3.20 How do setup my Eraser / Warbird for axial rolls?

If the plane is already built, then just make sure it is correctly balanced.
If it is unbuilt, or you are prepared to open up your aileron servo cavity,
remove the servo arm and replace it with a disc type one. Put the pushrods
in the 30 deg holes at the back of the pivot point, so that the UP going
aileron travels up more than the other goes DOWN. This makes your rolls more
axial and reduces drag in steep turns. It's called "aileron differential"
and all full size aircraft, and big model gliders, have it. You can also use
a servo with 120deg arms. See the diagram below...

*** See aileron_differential.jpg ***

3.21 Do the Mustang and Spitfire have exactly the same wing as the eraser?

The Mustang and Spitfire wings are Eraser wings, except that you cut the
tips differently, using the supplied template.

3.22 Can you make the Eraser fuselage more pointy or thinner for less drag?

You can, but it will not be as strong. It flies fine with the standard
fuse.

3.23 Should I replace the double spars with one extra thick spar for more
strength?

NO. Best to clean the spar rods well with acetone to remove any tooling
oil, and bond in very securely with Goop. Spring for a tube of Shoe Goo 2,
from your friendly shoe repair shop. Get a nozzle and squirt plenty into the
spar slots and bury the spar rods in it, smoothing down the Goop on top. We
recommend using latex gloves, (available from supermarket for a couple of
bucks). Let the whole thing set for at least 24hrs before taping over the
spar area. Any stay away from those spiral dives - they stress the wing the
most.

3.24 How do I balance my Eraser / Warbird?

Get a couple of pencils, or drumsticks and tape them to a chair with the
points sticking up about 6 - 12inches apart (not critical) and at same
height (critical). Balance the plane on the points (at left wing spar on
one, right wing spar on other) and see which way the plane falls (forwards
or backwards). Adjust nose weight until plane hangs nicely (Eraser) or stays
momentarily balanced (Warbird).

4 Building Your Jazz

4.1 Does my Jazz Extreme need a nose cone?

No, it is all EPP, and quite capable of handling nose first-dings. Safety is
the other aspect - sharp or hard covers on foamies can increase the chances
of injury.

4.2. Is it worth putting mini/micro servos in a Jazz?

Nope. The standard servos are the correct weight, and with on light days
with standard servos, the Jazz happily flies long after other models have
fallen from the sky.

4.3 Should I put carbon spars in my Jazz?

There is little advantage, if any. Just build as per instructions to get a
very strong plane.

4.4 Is there any way I can balance my Jazz without extra weight?

If you are using dry cell batteries, then use this method. If you have
rechargeables, you don't need to change out batteries all the time and you
may prefer a prettier finish. Install all radio gear, servos - but not the
battery pack. Totally finish the plane with covering as well as this affects
the CG a small amount. Then tape a round pencil to the recommended CG and
find the balance by putting the battery pack in the right spot. Install the
pack and cover with tape.

4.5 When covering the Jazz with coloured tape, should you overlap the tape at
the centre of the wing or cut it?

It is better to overlap the tape across the centreline.


4.6 I have a variable rate mixer, what settings are best for the Jazz?

For elevon control, you need equal mixing. 100% on each channel is the
usual, and works for most people. If you find ailerons or elevator or both
are over controlling, cut back the mix percentage on the offending
control(s) until you are happy.

4.7 Can you pod-mount an IC engine on a Jazz?

Apparently you can. We have had reports of one customer trying a 0.8cc Enya
and a 1.0cc OS with success, although he says the launch is a bit dodgy!

5 Finishing

5.1 Arggh - I've made a mistake in the shaping - what do I do?

Just glue in a suitable sized piece of foam with contact cement or Spray 77,
once the glue dries it is as good as new and you can continue shaping.
Don't use goop because it dries too hard to sand and you get a ridge around
the repair. Alternatively, fill small holes with Sellys "No More Gaps". This
product stays flexible, and if applied smoothly doesn't need sanding. It
sets up quickly and takes the 3M77 well for covering.

5.2 How should I decorate my model?

The best way to decorate your first model is to use the coloured
polypropylene tape supplied in the kit. It comes in 6 colours and it is
easy to apply. For best results, apply two layers of tape so that it
becomes opaque. Alternatively you can cover with heat shrink film,
(your choice, but Ultracote, Profilm Lite or Oracover are the best), or
sign writing vinyl (a little heavier but very rugged). The other heat shrink
films (e.g. Solarfilm, Solarcote) tend to peel or wrinkle with changes in
humidity and temperature.

5.3 How do get a camouflage effect?

Cover the plane in the base colour (tape or heat shrink film) and then apply
patches cut from heat shrink film or sign writing vinyl (but not the
polypropylene tape - it is hard to cut to shape). Alternatively, you can
colour in the camouflage patches with a permanent marker. Permanent markers
are useful for drawing in landing gear, panel lines, cockpit structure,
exhausts and insignia. Wash the areas where you are marking, with warm water
with some dishwashing detergent in it, rinse with clear water and dry well
before using a waterproof marker, for example an Artline 70 High Performance
fine point tip works well. Insulation tape is easy to cut to shape for
lettering and invasion stripes.

5.4 Can you paint over the PP tape supplied with the kit and if so what paint do
you use?

In all cases, make sure you use the fibre reinforced packing tape as per the
directions. For best results when painting the model, completely cover in
white sign writing vinyl. If you cover the model with PP tape, it is harder
to paint over. Sand covering lightly with 400 grit wet and dry paper and
then wipe it down with water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid in it,
followed with a rinse of clear water (don't get the adhesive on the covering
wet!) and let dry thoroughly. Then spray paint it. Note that paint tends to
crack and flake where the foam flexes in crashes.

5.5 How should I finish my balsa ailerons?

Lightly spray with Spray 77 and cover in the polypropylene tape or film you
are using on the rest of the plane.

5.6 What is a good colour scheme for a beginner?

Use a two colour scheme with the darker colour on the bottom and lighter
colour on the top.
For example red, blue or green on the bottom, and yellow or white on
the top.
Try and choose a colour scheme totally unlike any other plane that turns up
at the slope - that way you won't start flying the chaps next to you!
On a Jazz, colouring one side different on top and bottom can help you
figure out which way it is going.

5.7 How do I avoid wrinkles in my PP tape covering?

Use a foam block to push the tape down as you lay it out along the wings and
fuse. If you want to iron the flat bits, use 135 degrees centigrade, keep
the iron moving along, and press down with a (damp) cloth or glove behind
the iron. I use a damp cloth. At sharp corners, either slit the tape, or use
a covering iron at 150 degrees centigrade. Keep the iron away from
polystyrene, as this will melt. Don't use the clothes iron in case you get
gunk on it.

5.8 Can I use a heat gun or paint stripping gun to shrink the covering?

No - you run the risk of melting the foam.

5.9 Does it matter what order I tape in?

Yes. Make sure you always tape from rear to forwards. This makes sure that
when you hit the deck you don't collect dirt where the tape overlaps. Some
people are getting on quite well with taping the fuselage in strips that go
lengthwise.

5.10 Can I use tinfoil for a metallic look?

It tends to crinkle and it is heavy. It is ok for making a shiny cockpit
with, but not for covering the whole plane!

5.11 How do I make exhaust ports on my Warbird?

Cut some black tape to shape and apply. Or use a felt pen.

5.12 What size plastic spinner is scale for the Spitfire?

44mm diameter looks good. Use a wallboard mounting plug and plenty of
Goop. Don't use a spinner in combat, because it could make dents in the
other planes.

5.13 How can I hide my pushrods and control horns on my Eraser / Warbird /
Jazz?

All you need to do is fool the eye. If you have balsa ailerons, mount
the aileron control horns so that the horn base plate is right at the
inboard end of the aileron. This enables you to bury the control pushrod
more completely in slots in the side of the fuse from the servo arm. If
you have the cutouts from the fuse, slice thin pieces(about 1/8th") off
the outsides of them and stick them back in the holes with contact cement
(not GOOP) and set them smooth with the fuse surfaces. Make a map of the
positions of all equipment holes with accurate measurements from a known
datum point, so you can locate them if you ever need to go back in to do
"internal surgery".

Then tape over with cross directional tape, overlapping
well for strengths sake. Do all your strapping tape covering and smooth
it down well with a hot iron until you are satisfied it is perfect, then,
and only then, cover with the final coloured covering tape or film. Cut
the little trenches for the aileron and elevator pushrods, before you put
the strapping tape on the fuse, otherwise you are severely weakening the
whole structure, by cutting through the fibre tape afterwards. Then paint
the exposed bits the same colour of your fuse. You can use a small smear
of prymol to make sure the paint sticks.

If you are really keen, you could make a totally hidden elevon actuation
system for the Jazz, using the rotary driver system described on
http://www.proptwisters.org/rds2/. If you do, let us know how you get
on.

5.14 How do I shape the new spitfire Mk14 bubble canopy?

Think of it like a Cessna or Piper canopy. The side profile is already
accurate so now you need to round the front and back a little with a knife
and sandpaper.

5.15 My tail feathers are droopy - what can I do?

You can put a 2-3mm diameter rod down one of the flutes in the corflute of
each stabiliser. Be aware that any extra weight at the back requires a
proportionally greater amount of nose weight. Just glue in place or tape
over the holes.

5.16 How can I make wing fairings for my spitfire?

If you want to make the wing root fairings, make them with a fillet of Goop,
Shoe Goo 2, or the urethane glue which came with the kit. Don't use Zap-A-
Dap-a-Goo, its great for gluing, but too runny for moulding shapes. Just
squeeze the Goo into the wing/root joint and smooth with a wet finger, or a
fat paddle pop stick. Wipe off any smears with a metho damped rag as soon as
possible, then leave to set. What ever you do don't get the Goo in the
aileron joint.

6 Flying

6.1 How do I choose a slope?

Try and find one already in use to know what you are looking for. Otherwise,
try to find a steep slope or cliff with the wind blowing directly onto the
slop/cliff face. If the wind is too much from the side there will be
whirlpools of turbulence caused by the projections of the cliff face, which
will grab your glider and throw it against the cliff no matter what you do.
If you are learning, make sure that you can access the lower reaches of
the slope and also behind you, so you can get your plane if it crashes.

6.2 What is a spiral dive, what is a spin?.

A spin is when you stall the plane: one wing drops and remains stalled and
the plane auto rotates. Releasing the sticks usually stops it in about 1 1/2
turns, or, if not, then use full opposite rudder to stop the spin and some
down stick to regain airspeed, followed by a pullout. Since the plane is
stalled, and especially in a flat spin, the forces on the plane are not that
great. A spiral dive however is usually caused by a novice pilot putting on
too much aileron too quickly before pulling the stick back too late
resulting in the nose dropping to the vertical, and the plane winding up
like a corkscrew. Putting on opposite aileron immediately and pulling out
GENTLY usually saves the day if you have enough height. But the average
novice usually tries to do both at the same time, which can cause even the
strongest wing to "Clap Hands" (break in the middle).

6.3 What is the best way to launch the Jazz?

For a start you could get someone else to launch it. They can use two hands
at the leading edge and hold it above their head and then pull it forwards
into the air - this is a pretty good launch method. Otherwise, just grab it
in your hand at the tip, some prefer fingers on top, others on bottom. If
the lift is OK you won't need to give it much of a throw. The most
important thing is that the throw doesn't cause the plane to roll to either
side - that causes problems. You have to aim slightly downwards though,
don't aim up too much or it will stall. Keep your left hand on the
elevator stick as the jazz usually pitches up when the wind catches it.
If you launch very fast, the Jazz may pull up of its own accord - if so, push
SLIGHTLY down on the elevator. You can also use the finger(s) between the
elevons trick and it does work OK.

6.4 How can I get a better grip on my model for launching?

Use Spray 77 or double-sided tape to stick a couple of squares of 400 grit
sand paper, rough side out, to your fuselage where you grip it.

6.5 My Jazz flies unstable...what is wrong?

If it's unstable then you've probably got the CG too far back. Either
rebalance it, or if you are at the slope, try putting a bit of weight on the
nose temporarily (e.g. tape on some lead, or a bolt) and see if it improves.
It is better to have a correctly balanced model that is a little heavier
than one that is lighter and unbalanced. An unbalanced model is hard work to
fly, rather than fun. If the plane is correctly balanced, then just make
sure you are keeping it moving - they like speed, rather than dozing off
facing into the wind.

6.6 What is reflex, and how much do I need?

Reflex is the position of the ailerons relative to the wing surface when
they are in a neutral position. Reflexing the ailerons downward increases
the camber of the wing, increasing lift, but also drag. Reflexing the
ailerons upward a tiny amount will reduce lift a bit but also reduce drag,
so the plane will glide faster to make up the lost oft. With an aileron
servo on each wing and a programmable TX you can change the camber in flight
to suit the conditions, but this complicates everything and defeats the low
cost and simplicity of our two channel slope soarers. You should set your
ailerons flush with the wing on all models.

6.7 Can I fly at night?

Yes. Tape 3 chemical glow sticks of different colours to the plane, one each
wing-tip and one at the nose. You can add an extra one to the tail too if
you prefer. Orientation is your biggest problem, but it will come with stick-
time. Try for a smooth night your first time, and try and stay away from
flying against a backdrop of city lights. Also avoid looking at car
headlights when they come past!

You can also use LEDs if you are electronically minded.

6.8 Can I land in water?

NO!!! Wet electronics is not happy electronics, and it also affects the tape
covering.

6.9 I fly near water...what precautions I should take?

If you are flying anywhere near water, you should waterproof your RC gear
as much as possible. Some techniques are:- "Gift wrap" your servos in poly
food wrap and magic tape. Wrap again, very neatly with masking tape. Seal
the hole where the wires come out with Goop or Silicon Seal. Remove the
servo arm and make a bead of silicon grease, (buy from any pool shop)
around the output shaft. Replace the servo arm without disturbing the
grease seal. Bury the servo in the fuse or wing and tape over securely.
Seal the end of the output tube at the control horn end with a blob of
silicon grease, to prevent any water going back up the "snake", and that's
about as much as you can do about it. The RX can be protected in the same
way, but use aluminium foil as well all over the RX as it helps protect the
RX from radio interference. The battery should be no problem. If you want
to, a blob of Goop on the base of the output wires won't hurt, and the RX
switch can be treated like the servos.

6.10 Can you bungee launch a CS plane?

When trying to bungee any model, get a reasonable amount of pre tension
before release, about 6kg, which is a lot more than you think. This is best
figured by trial and... well it's an EPP Model anyway! Throw the model up at
about 30 degrees, keep it straight with ailerons , and ease on a little back
pressure so it climbs steeply, if you ease too much it will stall... but
that is worth finding out so you can get just enough (but don't stall close
to the ground) On your eraser attach the hook on the fuselage bottom about a
25mm forward of the wing spar. Bend a hook from wire and then tape it on.

6.11 What is Dynamic Soaring (DS) ?

Dynamic soaring is a technique where you fly behind the hill doing loops
between the moving air and dead air. You can generate a lot of speed. It is
quite incredible to behold and challenges our long held beliefs about flying
on the back side. It takes a while to get the hang of flying very fast close
to the ground in an inclined loop/steep turn, and you prang a lot, but that
is what foamies are for! If you can find a good site - go for it, it is one
of the best adrenaline rushes.

7 Repairs

7.1 My Eraser / Warbird fuselage has cracks in it - what do I do?

Glue the crack closed using contact cement or Spray 77 - not the goop
supplied with kit as this dries too hard to sand, leaving a ridge where the
crack was. Make sure you apply a nice long piece of fibre tape running along
the fuselage from front to back on both sides, even if the crack is only one
side.

7.2 My Eraser / Warbird wing came off even though I did a really good job of
gluing it on - what do I do?

Reread the instructions and the FAQ just in case you missed something. If
you got the instructions right then you probably have been crashing the
plane a lot. Clean off all the old glue and any of the tape that has come
loose, and glue it up again. If you are really having trouble, get a tube
of liquid nails. The best way to use the liquid nails is squirt some onto
one surface, then get the other surface, press them together, squish the
glue around a bit, then separate the two pieces. Let the air get to the glue
for about 5 minutes (or up to an hour), then whack them back together, weigh
it down a bit and leave it at least 48 hours or longer if necessary.

7.3 My Eraser / Warbird / Jazz has a chunk missing / a slice cut into the wing's
leading edge - what do I do?

If it is just a crack, glue it up with contact cement or Spray 77 (but not
goop) and when dry cover with a patch of fibre tape. If there is a chunk
missing, glue in a suitable piece of new foam, or the old chunk if you have
it, when dry shape it to fit the wing and cover with a fibre tape patch.

7.4 My fuselage looks pretty beaten up - is it worth fixing?

YES! Replace any damaged foam, and glue up any cracks. Make sure you use
plenty of fibre tape over anywhere you had cracks. This is most likely to be
in the fuse at the front and back of the wing join. If you feel you need it,
use some fibreglass rod to lend some stiffness to a well beaten fuse. Recover
with fresh PP tape and it will be good as new!

7.5 I can't get 3M Super Spray77, but can get 90 and 75 - are they ok?

Watch out as some glues eat EPS. 3M 90 isn't as good as 77. We haven't tried
Spray 75.

7.6 What are the different sorts of tapes and what should I replace them with
if I run out?

The fibre tape, or strapping tape, is used for structural strength and it
has fibreglass threads running thru it. This can be replaced with any
fibreglass reinforced tape, whether it has uni or cross-directional threads.
The coloured or clear tape is polypropylene, same stuff as brown packing
tape. Use any polypropylene tape in its place.

7.7 Can my Eraser / Warbird fly with only one aileron?

Yes, but turns will be sluggish and rolls slow. Repair ASAP!

7.8 My plane crashed and now it won't turn very well and it only rolls
slowly - what is wrong?

Check that you have not broken part of one of the aileron control
linkages.

7.9 A clevis broke - should I upgrade to metal?

No, you need to release the stress somewhere and a clevis (30c) is cheaper
than a set of new servo gears ($5.95), which are more likely to be stripped
if you use a metal clevis.

8 Miscellaneous

8.1 What is a servo saver?

It is a two piece plastic key and slot that fits on your servo. It is
designed to break when the servo is subjected to high loads, preventing the
gears inside the servo from being stripped.

8.2 Does my Eraser / Warbird / Jazz need servo savers?

In general, NO. When you land a low-wing model like the Spitfire or the
Mustang, make sure the ailerons are in neutral (just let go the right hand
stick). In most other flying it is most usual to have a servo saver on the
rudder, as this is the part that gets it in a cartwheel landing. Most EPP
slopers don't have rudders.

8.3 Do I need a lost model alarm?

Many pilots swear by them, if you lose your plane a long way away or it
goes out of sight while still flying there is virtually no chance of finding
it without an LMA.

8.4 How do I convert my Hitec receiver switch for use with a charging plug in my
plane?

Open up the switch. Melt out all the solder joints. If any of the terminals
are bridged melt them out too. (I simply cut them out with a Dremel cutting
disc) Solder the battery input wires to the centre terminals, the charger
plug wires to the "off" end terminals and the wires from the RX to the "on"
terminals. That's it. Now when the switch is in the Off position it will
allow power to flow to the battery from the charger, but when the switch is
On it connects the battery to the RX whilst shutting off any connection to
the charger. Don't forget, all the Positive terminals are on one side of the
switch and all negatives on the other.

8.5 Where can I get some free simulator software?

CRRCsim - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/crrcsim
FMS - http://simulator.home.pages.de
Flyrc - http://www.pivot.net/~acarr/ron/ron.htm

CRRCsim lets you slope soar, FMS has thermal gliding.

8.6 What are transmitter modes?

There are two common ways of allocating the four standard aircraft controls
to the sticks on your transmitter: Mode one is elevator(up/down) and
rudder(left/right) on the left stick and throttle (up/down) and ailerons
(left/right) on the right stick. A two channel slope soarer uses elevator
and ailerons, and on a standard two channel transmitter like the Hitec 2Z
this corresponds to mode one. Generally speaking, this mode is used in NZ
and Australia. Mode two is Ailerons & Elevator on the right, Throttle &
Rudder on the left. Most common in Britain and US. The three channel Focus 3
is sort of 3/4 Mode two.

8.7 Is it safe to use a smoke system on my CS plane?

Depends if you are worried about it melting or not....

8.8 What is an elevon mixer?

The Jazz uses two elevons as control surfaces - these are a combination of
elevator and ailerons. Each elevon is driven by a separate servo. The elevon
mixer plugs into the receiver, takes the elevator and aileron control
signals as input and generates left and right elevon control signals.

8.9 Can I leave my plane in a car on a hot day?

Try not to - the tape tends to wrinkle and in extreme cases the fuse / wing
warps.

8.10 What are GIMPS?

Very annoying loops of tape where the tape is stuck to itself.

9 Acknowledgements

This FAQ was compiled by tim.drysdale from posts of rcmodels
forum members, notably Patrick McGrath, with plenty of other hints, tips and
opinions from ( in no particular order ) Flying Brick, TopGun, Dave, Steve,
Brad, DonLynn, Magpie, Bisho, Ash, Foamie King, Robnox, BennyC, Hendo,
SoaringJunkie and others.

10 Disclaimer

This article is provided as is without any express or implied warranties.
While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this article, the compiler and contributors assume no
responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the
use of the information contained herein. Anything you are still not sure
about, get online at www.rcmodels.com or check with the team at CS.